The forlorn island in San Francisco Bay , Alcatraz, is known.
The Birdman. Machine Gun Kelly. Capone.
But on a misty October morning, I boarded an Alcatraz Ferry looking for other brilliant residents of the windswept fortress. “Mrs. Langtry.” “Dorothy Perkins.” “Caroline Jane.”
Sailboats leaned slicing the fog as we pulled off from Pier 33. The town rose behind us. Gulls cried.
The prior pen loomed drab and prohibiting, Ahead, enticing people toward the stones, sirenlike in its allure that is perverse.
But then we met with Monica Beary and disembarked. Sporting a mind bopper with flowers, she stood ready to soften the edges of this citadel. Beary is a volunteer docent for the Gardens of Alcatraz, and hers is one of talks and tours about offer. The storied atmosphere – an 1850s-era military installment switched maximum-security lockup – is now a National Historic Landmark and a part of this expansive Golden Gate National Recreation Area.
Earlier we gaze upon Mrs. Langtry and other such Alcatraz plants with titles, Beary displays the oldest known photograph of the Rock. The 1853 image depicts a sea outcrop. In the late 1800s, soil was brought from Angel Island to encourage cannons. Military families utilized the soil to plant blossoms. Shortly, Alcatraz Started to seem as a Chia Pet.
By the time the Federal Bureau of Prisons assumed control in 1933, a lot of the 22-acre island has been landscaped. Freddie Reichel, secretary to the warden at the time, arrived and discovered, “There were flowers all over the leeward side of this island, [including] a lovely rose garden”
Reichel got consent to nurture the beds. Among those felons was captive No. 578AZ, Elliott Michener, who had gained confidence when he flipped in a set of secrets he had found. Michener’s talent with greenbacks, A counterfeiter resulted in a green thumb, and eight years’ access to fresh air.
“He knew nothing about gardening,” Beary told visitors. “He also read backs of seed packets and also read novels. He persuaded that the prison to collect water that was grey [bathwater] and also incinerator ashes and kitchen scraps for compost. He and other inmates built terraces from rubble rock”
Michener’s devotion attracted the esteem and friendship of Warden Edwin B. Swope and his wife, Edna, a social flower enthusiast, who’s pictured in a single archival photograph standing beside the garden at a flowered gown and high heels. It brought him a sense of normalcy. Michener built them and turned into a houseboy of types to get the Swopes. Edna Swope also he shared a mutual affection. On the deathbed, she placed bets based on the newspaper racing success.
When Michener was transferred from Alcatraz, he mourned the plants and composed to the warden, “I think my greatest and only practical path is to get back to Alcatraz [from Leavenworth prison]. At Alcatraz, I could expand Bell roses and delphiniums seven days every week and revel in appreciable freedom and trust, and generally make the very best of things”
After prison, Michener rejoined his friend and fellow inmate gardener Dick Franseen at Wisconsin. Both worked in horticulture. At a 1952 correspondence, Michener wrote back to Swope: “Dick and I are getting along nicely and for the very first time I’m learning how much better one can do living honestly than by, say, counterfeiting!” He wrote. “And we’ve got a favor to ask: Will you ship us a part of our older [Gardenia] climbed?”
This pale-yellow increased still blooms behind the remains of the warden’s house.
Thirteen years later Michener left Alcatraz, the prison was shuttered. The beds became critters and overgrown established nesting colonies. Plants, including eight rose bushes, did their very own hard time, living austere conditions and neglect.
In 2003, the Garden Conservancy, Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy and the National Park Service joint efforts to restore the gardens. Work remains, says Shelagh Fritz, the Golden Gate National Parks Conservancy’s project director for Alcatraz. Since they have park staffers and volunteers also have discovered evidence of inmate life – including 100 fugitive handballs, escapees from the prison’s rec yard.
The restoration involved sleuthing to ascertain what remained under thickets of wild blackberries and other invasives. After inventorying their finds – such as the cape tulip which appeared when brambles were removed – they used photos to guide attentive relandscaping.
New plant species adapt to the island’s most Mediterranean climate have been introduced. Fritz claims that visitors, especially from the Bay Area, may glean ideas for plants which are tolerant of wind and drought. Additionally they may identify residents that inhabit the island voluntarily, including eight kinds of bees, also hummingbirds, monarch butterflies, pelicans and oystercatchers.
“The gardens were restored and implanted with non-thirsty varieties,” Beary said. “There’s no rain between May and October, and it never goes below freezing” (May is peak flower time, however, blossoms begin with daffodils in March; different blooms continue through September.)
Along one route, Beary pointed out the white-margined nightshade. “It has thorned leaves, as if the plant is attempting to shield itself,” she explained. “It’s prickly. You need to be challenging to live here”
To foster plant survival, volunteers and staffers have produced award-winning compost and included a gravity-fed method for rainwater.
On Alcatraz’ west, at the inmate garden, cormorants, snowy egrets and Western gulls now nest. But prisoner-planted trees – fig, apple, black walnut and New Zealand Christmas – along with globe artichokes still develop under a decaying gun tower in which a protector once kept watch.
The atmosphere is quiet, save for the mournful bell of a buoy at the bay, and you wonder what the inmates pondered as they toiled in view of mainland freedom only over a mile away.
That western hillside, Michener wrote, “given a sanctuary in the temptations of the prison, the work a discharge, and it turned into an obsession. This one thing I’d succeed.”
Before prison, by a young age, Michener led a hardscrabble life of wandering. It’s like at Alcatraz, such as the tiny airborne seeds of Jupiter’s beard valerian which land and bloom profusely – nearly ultra – from crevasses in the island’s rock, he finally recognized roots.
In 1989, before the garden’s restoration, Michener returned into Alcatraz. In a recorded interview, he stated he pitied the men who were employed in the prison laundry “because pure drudgery.”
Years later, the emotional effects of being on the inside, even for just a brief while, are obvious on the faces of tourists who have taken the indoor tour among the tissues and pubs.
Beary confessed that contrast while walking the grounds that were . “A great example of gardening is able to do in order to restore the soul,” she called it.
– – –
Powers is a writer based in Detroit. Her site is rebeccapowers.com.
– – –
IF YOU GO
Where to stay
495 Jefferson St.
Among hotels within walking distance of Pier 33 is currently the Argonaut, near Pier 39. The boutique resort in the former Haslett Warehouse has a nautical decor. Even the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park visitor centre could be entered from the resort lobby. Rates begin at about $389 per night.
Where to eat
1 Ferry Building
The landmark building, at the foot of Market Street, is in walking distance of this Alcatraz Cruises ferry dock. Its clock tower makes it recognizable to visitors. The 1898 construction has been transport hub and a bustling marketplace. It now is an emporium of chocolate, vanilla, coffee, juices and racks offering pastries. There also are stores and restaurants that are online selling many artisanal goods. Among the dine-in areas is Hog Island Oyster Company (415-391-7117, hogislandoysters.com), that will be popular, in part, for its water view. Little plates there average $14. A bowl of clam chowder that is rich costs $14. The signature Hog Island Sweetwater oysters, uncooked and shucked to order, are offered separately or on discs of six ($18), 12 ($33) or 24 ($62).
What to do
Access via Pier 33
This infamous island, a former military installation and national penitentiary, lies in San Francisco Bay, just over a mile away from the mainland. Alcatraz Island is available all year except on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Along with the gardens, tours that are available include. The island has been reached using a 15-to-20-minute ride around the Alcatraz Cruises ferry. Round-trip ferry tickets for the early bird tours and day tour for adults cost $37.25; $23 for kids ages 5 to 11; free for younger kids. It’s recommended to purchase ferry tickets weeks. Departures begin at 8:45 a.m. daily